Straighter brows can soften your whole expression

What do you notice first in an old photo of yourself? Probably the eyebrows. Fashion has thinned them, arched them and thickened them again and again. Many of us plucked far too much in years gone by and now look back with a certain regret.

Korean brows suggest something calmer. This is the shape you see on actresses in Korean dramas: soft, full, with very little arch. In Korea they are called ilja nunsseop, roughly straight-line brows, though today's version is not as strict as it sounds.

Why people love this shape

A very high arch can give the face a stern or surprised look. A flatter brow feels calm. Korea also prizes a gentle, youthful look, and these brows help with that. They are especially flattering as skin and features soften with the years.

There is another advantage. With this shape, the hairs look natural. Texture matters more than an outline drawn with a ruler.

Adapt it to your face

Copying a shape exactly rarely works. Try this in front of the mirror, using a thin pencil as a guide:

• The start. Hold the pencil straight up from the side of your nose. That is usually where the brow begins.
• The highest point. Instead of a sharp peak, look for a very slight rise about two-thirds of the way along.
• The end. Angle the pencil from the side of your nose to the outer corner of your eye. The brow should finish about there.

On a long face, a straighter line often looks lovely because it visually shortens it. On a round face, keep a very slight curve. If your eyelids droop, avoid taking the tail too low, because your eyes will seem to drop with it.

Filling in without a painted look

The Korean secret is softness. First brush the brow upwards with a little spoolie. Then use a pencil or powder slightly lighter than your hair. If you have grey hairs, a taupe or cool brown usually looks more natural than black.

Draw short strokes in the direction of growth, especially where there are gaps. Start in the middle and work towards the tail. Leave the inner end until last and keep it very pale, almost blurred. Brush again to blend everything. A clear gel holds the hairs in place through the day.

If you overdo it, a cotton bud with a little cleanser fixes it in a moment.

Fewer tweezers, more patience

This shape needs hair, so the tweezers should stay in the drawer for a while. Remove only obvious strays below the line. Leave the top edge alone, since it sets the shape. Work in good light and step back from the mirror often. Look too closely and you will always find something else to pluck.

If your brows are thin, remember how much a well-done fill can improve them. That small daily job can disguise several decades of fashion.

Some care for your brows as well

Brows also benefit from simple care. Do not rub them when removing makeup, and keep them clean. You can also use a serum made for this area. CILARIA was formulated for lashes and brows, with peptides, biotin and panthenol. One thin stroke, morning and night, helps to keep them cared for and looking good.

In the end, the brows that suit you best are the ones that look like yours. If someone says you look well today and cannot say why, you got it right.